Layered composting is likely the most common composting approach. It can be done in various types of backyard composters, DIY bins, heaps or beds, and is one of the easiest ways to get started. The most basic set-up approach involves simply heaping up alternating layers of moistened "brown" (carbon-rich) and "green" (nitrogen-rich) materials, but the process can be further enhanced with the use of various "living materials" and other accelerators. This is a method that works well for both "batch" (all materials added at once) or "continuous" (materials continue to be added over time) systems, and when paired with worm composting and/or bokashi you can end up with a superior compost - often produced more quickly (when worms are involved).
Advantages of Layered Composting:
- Easy - When you stick to the principles, it can be quite easy to set up and maintain functional layered composting systems.
- Passive - Based on the way layered systems are set up (and added to, if necessary), there is relatively little ongoing "work" involved, so this can save you a lot of time and effort.
- Continuous or Batch - Whether you have a lot of waste materials ready to go all at once, or more of a smaller, ongoing supply, a layered approach can help you turn them into rich compost.
- Can be Less Expensive - It can cost almost nothing to get started with layered composting if you use some form of basic heap/bed or build a DIY system using supplies you have on hand. You also don't need to purchase composting worms (as with vermicomposting) or any sort of specialized microbial mix (as with bokashi).
- Excellent Partner Strategy - If you do wish to take your layered composting to the next level, we highly recommend this approach in combination with worm composting and/or bokashi.
- Some Flexibility of Scale - Unlike serious thermophilic composting systems, layered composting systems don't need a (large) "critical mass" of materials in order to get started. But when you do have a larger supply of starting materials they can be a great option as well.
Potential challenges with layered composting:
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Outdoor Method - Layered composting is an outdoor composting approach. As such, it's more susceptible to the elements so it's especially important to monitor moisture and temperature regularly.
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Slower - As a stand-alone composting method, layered composting can be slower than other methods since it is often heavily influenced by local climatic conditions, and tends to be more passive (less help from humans and specialized organisms such as composting worms or EM).
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Can sometimes attract rodents and other pest animals. Special care needs to be taken to maintain proper conditions in the pile to make it unattractive to pests. Speedibin is a good layered composting system when pests are a problem.
- Is not well suited for composting certain wastes like meat and dairy.
Overall assessment of the layered composting method
Layered composting is a great choice for anyone looking for a simple, fairly passive backyard composting method. It is very well-suited for yard wastes like grass clippings, weeds and fall leaves, along with compost-friendly kitchen scraps.
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Layered Composting FAQs
LAYERED COMPOSTING 101
What is layered composting?
Layered composting is likely the most common composting approach. It can be done in various types of backyard composters, DIY bins, heaps or beds, and is one of the easiest ways to get started. The most basic set-up approach involves simply heaping up alternating layers of moistened "brown" (carbon-rich) and "green" (nitrogen-rich) materials, but the process can be further enhanced with the use of various "living materials" and other accelerators. This is a method that works well for both "batch" (all materials added at once) or "continuous" (materials continue to be added over time) systems, and when paired with worm composting and/or bokashi you can end up with a superior compost - often produced more quickly (when worms are involved).
What's the best system to use for layered composting?
The best system for this type of composting - and really, any type of composting - is simply whatever system works best for your particular situation and goals. If you are budget-minded or want more flexibility in terms of design, some form of DIY system could be a great way to go. If you are concerned about pest invasion or local climate challenges, enclosed bins like the SpeediBin or Earth Machine can be great choices. If you are after total simplicity, perhaps one of our favourites, the GeoBin, might be up your alley. Be sure to check out our "Getting Started with Composting" page for more information.
What's better - layered composting or worm composting?
Both methods have their pros and cons. Which method works best for you will depend on your own particular situation, preferences and goals. Vermicomposting on its own is an excellent choice for those with limited space, especially when some form of compact indoor system is the only option. Layered systems are great for those who have a decent amount of outdoor space - but we actually highly recommend adding composting worms to these outdoor layered systems, since they can greatly speed up, and improve the efficiency of these systems while also leaving you with a superior end product.
Are compost tumblers good composting systems?
We feel that tumblers are potentially helpful as part of your overall composting system line-up, but they aren't necessarily the "ultimate" composting systems some would have you believe. Some models have insufficient ventilation and/or drainage, making it far more likely that anaerobic pockets can develop. Many of these systems are also very small compared to a typical backyard composter, decreasing the likelihood of an effective composting process happening and greatly reducing the amount of compost you can produce. That being said, a tumbler can work for mixing wastes and initiating a form of "pre-composting" - which can be especially useful when combined with vermicomposting. You can get the breakdown process started, and build up a rich microbial population - resulting in a food mix the worms can more quickly convert into vermicast.
Can I add composting worms to my layered composting system?
Absolutely! This is actually what we recommend, to greatly speed up, and improve the efficiency, of your layered systems while also leaving you with a superior end product.
Can I do layered composting indoors?
We encourage everyone to be bold and adventurous with their composting efforts, but for the average home owner, setting up a typical layered bin inside your home or even garage won't be ideal. These systems can take up a lot of space, you may end up with foul odours and pests and, bare minimum, you'll likely make a big mess. The good news is that a great alternative to layered composting - that's very well suited for indoor environments - is vermicomposting!
MATERIALS AND SET-UP
What's the best spot to put my layered composting system?
We recommend you set up your layered composting systems on a level, well-draining spot, in locations that are well-suited for your local climatic conditions as well as convenience. To avoid extremes in moisture and temperature, it is ideal to place your composting system in a partly to fully shaded area, that is in a sheltered location protected from prevailing winds (especially during colder times of year). It's best to maintain constant conditions for the microorganisms (bacteria and fungi) that are working to breakdown the waste. Sun exposure can be a very important factor. Shaded locations can lead to somewhat slower decomposition (since they tend to be cooler), but can be very helpful for improving moisture retention. If you are keeping systems in a sunny location, you may need to water (a lot) more frequently to keep the process moving along effectively. As for convenience, you should always put your composting systems in a location where they will actually be used - ideally, fairly close to your house, to ensure that adding new deposits is easy and fun, not something you dread. :-)
What can I add to my layered composting system?
For best results, is important to have a good balance of "browns" (carbon rich materials) and greens (nitrogen rich materials), ideally in a ratio of approx 2:1, browns:greens. Great browns can include fall leaves, dead grass, straw, hemp, and certain types of paper (kraft paper, scrunched paper), and shredded cardboard. Avoid using shredded paper as it can cause compaction, imped airflow, may contain chemicals, and can lead to anaerobic conditions. Greens can include fruit and veggie wastes, plants, coffee grounds, farmyard manures, and grass clippings.
What shouldn't I add to my layered system?
Pretty well any form of organic waste can technically be added to a layered composting system, but for the average home system it is best to avoid materials like meats, dairy, really salty or oily wastes, and dog or cat feces (these can definitely we composted, but they should always have their own dedicated, outdoor system - and the finished compost used only for ornamentals and other non-food plants). Other things to avoid include toxic or diseased plants.
Can I add pet wastes to a layered composting system?
We feel it's best not to add dog or cat wastes to your primary composting systems, due to various potential health hazards and the overall unpleasantness of working with these materials. An outdoor system dedicated to processing these wastes can, however, be a fantastic way to turn pet wastes into rich compost that can be used around your trees, shrubs or ornamentals. Certain system designs - for example the "Green Cone" - lend themselves well to the composting of dog and cat feces. Any wastes generated by herbivorous pets, such as guinea pigs, gerbils or rabbits, should be just fine to add to a typical outdoor layered composting (or even better, vermicomposting) system.
Can I add manure to my layered composting system?
Absolutely, but there are some important caveats. Firstly, the term "manure" can refer to an incredibly wide range of different materials. Some of them require additional handling/preparation steps in order to be used effectively, some should only be used in particular types of systems, and some may be best avoided altogether. As a good rule of thumb, some of the best manures are those from herbivorous mammals, that have been combined with some form of bedding (eg straw) and left to sit - or even partially composted - outdoors for a period of time. Our favourites include: horse, dairy, goat, sheep, and rabbit manure. Poultry manures, on the other hand, aren't nearly as easy to work with for the average composter, due to their dry consistency, high salt content, and greater tendency to release a lot of ammonia gas. These will often require additional handling steps (such as wetting and mixing with high-carbon materials), and some form of "pre-composting" stage for best results. We also caution the use of store-bought manures in your composting systems, since these materials will usually have already been through a large-scale composting process, and they tend to be quite sterile, often with elevated levels of salts.
MAINTENANCE AND TROUBLESHOOTING
How often do I need to add new material to my layered system?
Traditional hot composting typically utilizes a "batch" approach, where all the materials are added at the start and nothing else is added during the composting process. This method is also perfectly fine for layered composting methods, but one of the great things about these types of systems is that they actually lend themselves well to a more "continuous" composting approach. How often you add new material can mostly be dictated by how often you have new accumulations of wastes available, so their really aren't any hard and fast rules here. Unlike a small, indoor worm bin - where you definitely need to be more careful about deposit amounts and frequency - with these larger, outdoor layered systems you can usually just keep adding new material until the capacity of the system (assuming you are using some form of composting vessel, not just a heap or extended bed) is reached.
Do I need compost activator for my layered system?
No. While good quality activators can indeed boost your starting populations of microbes, this really won't be necessary with a system that is set up properly. Not only are there plenty of microbes present on a lot of materials commonly added to composting systems, but you can also add your own natural "activators" - what we refer to as "living materials". Some great examples include nicely-aged farmyard manures, decomposed leaves and other carbon-rich materials, as well as most quality, finished composts (excluding bagged, store-bought material, which can often be pretty sterile). NOTE: If you happen to have some EM inoculant on hand (eg if you are involved in bokashi), this can also be a great way to boost the population of beneficial microbes in your systems.
Do I need to turn my layered systems?
One of the potential benefits of a properly designed layered system is that it can offer more of a passive, lower-labour method for converting organic wastes into compost. Layers of bulky bedding materials will help to draw in air, and will tend to soak up and hold moisture from water-rich "greens" (and any additional watering you do), making it less necessary to do any real turning. That said, the more often you turn, the faster you can produce compost, and likely, the better the quality of the compost you'll produce, since the regular mixing and aerating of the materials greatly assists the composting process. In terms of frequency, you should see benefits from turning as infrequently as once per month, but if you can manage to turn your materials one or more times per week that's even better.
How can I keep pests out of my layered composting system?
With larger outdoor systems, it's important to realize that some organisms we consider "pests" indoors - such as fruit flies and gnats - will be difficult to completely keep at bay. With larger pest animals, such as rodents and larger scavengers such as racoons and bears, there are some best practices we recommend to at least help you avoid attracting these animals in the first place. Food wastes are always going to be the material most likely to attract animals. As much as possible, to stick with fruit and veggie wastes and avoid richer foods, especially anything with an inviting smell to it. Of course, also stick to the usual "no meats or dairy" composting guidelines, but if you happen to be in bear country, you should also add starchy wastes - like bread, pasta and rice - to this list as well. Food wastes should always be buried well down in bedding and adding "living materials" (such as really well-aged horse manure) and new high-carbon "browns" can help to mask odours even further. Maintaining proper moisture and air flow in the pile is also very important for not attracting unwanted pests. If there is excessive moisture and insufficient airflow you can create anaerobic pockets which will start to create foul odours, potentially attracting bears and other animals with a keen sense of smell. Lastly, it's important to work closely with your neighbours so that everyone is doing their best to follow animal preventative measures.
How hot will my layered system get?
The average backyard composting system is not really designed to provide the same sort of heating process as a typical thermophilic composting system, at least not for sustained periods, especially if you are employing a more continuous layering process. Still, it's very common for medium to large-sized home systems to achieve "hot composting" temperatures (of 55 C or more) for short periods of time. 32 - 60 C supports rapid decompostion, and at temps higher than 60 C most microorganisms cannot survive. Compost production goes through 3 stages: 1 - Mesophilic which occurs between 20-40 C which can be reached in 2-3 days if the pile is properly built, 2 - Thermophilic with temperature ranging from 40-60 C and will often last several weeks to months and 3 - Maturation with temperatures between 23-50 C and can take weeks. Commercial composting regulations require the temperatures to be above 40 degrees for 5 days with temperatures above 55 C for at least 4 hours. If a pile gets too hot, you can simply turn to aerate it. There are various factors such as size and shape of composting system, particle size, aeration and moisture that will affect the production of compost and the temperatures attained and the duration that it is maintained.
MISCELLANEOUS
What will happen to my system during the winter?
In regions with cold winter temperatures, it is likely that the composting process will be, bare minimum, slowed down for a good portion of the year, since it is highly dependent on microbial (and other critter) activity. Adding composting worms can be a great way to extend your season somewhat, since they perform well even when ambient temperatures are on the cool side (don't forget, the inside of your systems will often be warmer). There are also additional insulation and microbial-heating strategies you can use to help extend your season.
How long will it take to make compost?
How long it will take to make compost in a layered system will depend on a wide range of different factors, including your local climate (and seasonal conditions), what materials are used, how the system is set-up, what (if any) additional steps are taken to optimize the process, and so forth. A realistic expectation for the average home composter - during warmer months - might be waiting at least 2 or 3 months for a batch of compost to be ready for use. There are various ways the process can be sped up, though, such as regular turning/mixing or the use of composting worms.
Should I cover my composting system with a tarp?
Generally speaking we suggest to not cover your composting system with a tarp or other similar synthetic materials unless it is finished compost, there is excessive rain, issues with pests or to retain heat during the winter. Otherwise it's best to keep compost uncovered. If covered, the compost will become prone to many issues. First off, for a compost pile to process properly, we need adequate air flow and moisture. If not provided, the moisture within the pile can become trapped, start to form mold and anaerobic pockets in your compost. Odours will begin to form attracting pests, heat generation within the pile will slow down due to insufficient airflow and trapped moisture, beneficial microbes that process the material may start to die and the cover will prevent rain from entering the materials in the entire pile which can cause materials to dry out. It's always great practice to cover the pile in carbon-rich materials such as leaves, straw/hay, etc...as it will provide protection, retain moisture and yet allow proper air circulation.
Should I cover my finished compost with a tarp?
We recommend you set up your layered composting systems on a level, well-draining spot, in locations that are well-suited for your local climatic conditions as well as convenience. To avoid extremes in moisture and temperature, it is ideal to place your composting system in a partly to fully shaded area, that is in a sheltered location protected from prevailing winds (especially during colder times of year). It's best to maintain constant conditions for the microorganisms (bacteria and fungi) that are working to breakdown the waste. Sun exposure can be a very important factor. Shaded locations can lead to somewhat slower decomposition (since they tend to be cooler), but can be very helpful for improving moisture retention. If you are keeping systems in a sunny location, you may need to water (a lot) more frequently to keep the process moving along effectively. As for convenience, you should always put your composting systems in a location where they will actually be used - ideally, fairly close to your house, to ensure that adding new deposits is easy and fun, not something you dread. :-) Once your compost is fully stabilized, it's not a bad idea to keep it protected from the elements as excess rain, heat, solar exposure can degrade the quality of the compost.